We're bouncing along over cobblestone paths in the backseat of the golf buggy, the Vila Vita Parc resort's classy gardens trundling by on either side, while our friendly Portuguese driver animatedly chats away upfront.
He's enquiring after our stay in the Algarve (we've wandered across the road from the stylish - and more affordable - Vilalara Grand Hotel (review here)), commenting on the weather (though how much of an ongoing conversation piece this could possibly be I'm not sure, given the unfailingly blue-skied conditions we've been having day after day), and extolling the virtues of the restaurant we're about to arrive at.
The gentle sway of the vehicle would normally be enough to lull me into dozing off, but I won't have the time. A handful of minutes later we've reached our destination - Ocean Restaurant.
Ushered inside, we surrender the blazers that we've misguidedly brought along for the elegant setting - superfluous, as it turns out, during the balmy summer evenings in a restaurant open to the sultry Algarvean sea breezes.
Atmosphere at Ocean Restaurant
We are led to our table at Ocean restaurant in Porches, and we've lucked out - we've been allocated one of the tables situated right at the front of the room.
Not that there are all that many to begin with - the restaurant is smaller than I'd expected, with only around 10 tables in total.
The dining room itself is built with one side open to the ocean: A rectangular frame like a grand cinema screen that showcases the surrounding littoral views.
A couple of glasses of bubbly are brought over, and as we clink them together we stare out at the surroundings - Atlantic ocean views to the horizon, where the sun is slowly making its way out of sight.
The restaurant itself is beautifully stylish, an ocean-blue wall of shelves filled with eye-catching bleached sea corrals, and overhead a motif of golden white circular lights. Romantic definitely comes to mind.
The setting is overall is marvelous, and the perfect backdrop for what is to come: food that is itself intimately linked to the sea.
Ocean Restaurant: Menu and Price
We're visiting Ocean restaurant in July of 2021, and Hans Neuner's current tasting menu is called 'Islands Route', menu price €180 per person.
(Update: As of Dec 2024, the menu at Ocean has a price of €275 per person.)
The Islands menu has taken inspiration from across the Portuguese nation, and our culinary journey will include dishes influenced by the islands of Madeira and the Azores archipelago, as well as from the length and breadth of the Portuguese mainland.
Food at Ocean restaurant
And so to the main event - the food.
On our plates has been appearing a series of dishes that are like miniature screenings, showcasing the diversity and culinary heritage of Portugal's various regions.
First and foremost, let's just say that these edible creations are gorgeous! As befits a restaurant with 2 Michelin stars to its name. Every single one of the plates at Ocean is instagram-worthy.
But the proof is, as they say, in the pudding. And here as well Ocean restaurant, and chef Hans Neuner, has excelled.
It's hard to overstate just how tasty the food here is. Even in some of the best restaurants, it's rare to go through an entire tasting menu without having the odd dish that does not quite hit the mark. But here it is, to our amazement and delight, the case - every single thing that was put in front of us was lip-smackingly delicious!
In fact, there's not much more than that left to be said than that. Our experience at Ocean was second to none. We would be hard placed to imagine a meal anywhere that pleased us more.
So rather than continuing to wax eloquent, we will let the photos of the dishes speak for themselves. To a one, they were beautiful, creative, and served to perfection. If these images don't make your mouth water, we're not sure what will :)
Starters
We started off with some amazing seaweed bread, served together with what seemed like a few extra olives. In actual fact, they turned out to be balls of tapenade - the resemblance to real olives so beautifully life-like that it was only on cutting into them that we realised what they were.
Alongside was a deep-fried anchor with mackerel cream and tomato, as well as another bit of camouflage magic - a clam, in a life-like clam shell that was nevertheless unexpectedly edible too.
Next a codfish and orange mousse with potato in a crusty crunchy cup, and followed by a more-ish 'Alcatra' Portuguese beef pot roast.
Main Courses
The main courses brought more mouth-watering fare, each dish an exemplary culinary creation.
We started with a traditional cozido stew, accompanied by caviar and eel. Followed by a ceviche-style tuna and pineapple creation that was out of this world.
Next up, Azorean limpets and sole rice, prettily presented. And finally, a duck in mulberry sauce that was nothing short of perfection.
Each of the plates had been immaculate, and had taken us on a sea voyage to the far flung reaches of Portugal.
Desserts
As we moved on to the desserts part of the evening, chef Hans Neuner had more surprises in store for us, all packaged up in beautiful bite sized portions.
There's smoky chocolate caroceiro, as well as yummy queijada Dona Amelia pastry. There's a coconut sorbet cookie, and then a variety of petit fours - like praline coins and blood orange fruit glacé - to delight and amaze.
And by the end of it we've had a fine dining experience that has been satisfying is every way.
Review of Ocean Restaurant
What is it that makes a truly exceptional restaurant?
Is it only the quality of the food? Or the provenance of the ingredients, creatively combined, into new and surprising flavours? Surely, that is essential.
How about the ambiance, tasteful and authentic, in a unique setting with unparalleled views? Or great service and attentive staff?
Yes, all of these are certainly contributions to a potentially great restaurant.
And then again, even all of those put together still cannot capture the whole story. In the end, the very best restaurants are somehow more enigmatic, less easily defined.
Have no doubt though, Ocean restaurant ticks all of these boxes, and does so with flair.
But underlying all that is a feeling less easily put into words, but which nevertheless stays with you long after your visit.
A feeling that you've just experienced something singular, where absolutely everything came together in an almost mystical way to create a magnificent meal to remember.
This is the case at Ocean restaurant.
Not only is Ocean quite possibly the best restaurant in the Algarve, it is also absolutely one the best restaurants we have had the pleasure of eating in anywhere, ever!
Ocean Restaurant location: Address - Vila Vita Parc, R. Anneliese Pohl, Alporchinhos, 8400-450 Porches, Portugal
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